DIYC Basic A-line, Easing Fit and Lining

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I learned this tip from Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing. I find it works great on skirts like this, those without an attached/separate waistband as it helps to draw in, and refine, the fit. I find that this works well when you have about about an inch or so, but no more than two, that need to be refined.

Here's how I do it! Remember, this is after inserting the zipper.

I break the skirt into fours, two for the front and two for the back. Using a long basting/gathering stitch, I stitch along the waist seam line, in these four separate sections, starting and stopping before the next. I find breaking the gathering into four different thread sections makes it easier to ease.

So, after stitching I put the skirt on. I draw in the waist here and there by fiddling with the bobbin threads of the stitching. It is very important to distribute this easing as much as possible to prevent puckering.

Here's mine, eased in:

 

Next, I stabilize this easing. I will usually use strips cut from the selvage of the garment fabric, but 1/4" twill tape is good too. I sew right on top of the ease stitching.

The inside

The outside

The lining for this skirt was really an after thought. When I started it I wasn't sure if I wanted to take the time to line it... or more like I wasn't sure if the skirt was going to turn out :)

Anyway, since I was excited about the progress, I decided to line it. Since I made this determination after I had refined the fit, I had to repeat this same process with the lining. No biggie, just more time consuming. To stabilize the lining stitches, I sewed it along the top of the skirt right on top of the stabilizing stitches on the skirt.

My favorite result of lining a skirt?

The beautiful clean edge created in the inside of the skirt along the zipper! If there is an interest in learning how to do this, I might just dive into creating a video-tutorial... we'll see!

Next up, the Petersham ribbon waist facing.

Comments

[Jen]

very cool! i'd love to see your zipper tutorial. i'd also be curious to see how the lining looks on the inside once it is attached. since i don't have a lot of experience with sewing lined skirts, it's hard for me to wrap my brain around how its sewn together without a waistband.

[Kris]

This does look really neat! I keep on thinking I should sew more skirts for myself, and then... well, I don't. :P